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What a great, thoughtful post and how I envy you being in Cuba. I was there 15 years ago and it sounds like it hasn't changed at all (except for a few more mobiles!)
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I think it's impossible for a non-Cuban to really "get" Cuba because we don't really have a point of reference for it. It's also hard for us to break outside of the "dualities" about Cuba-- because that's all we ever really hear outside Cuba and it clouds our vision from being able to see the complexities of Cuba as a country and as a people. And, like any country, it's incredibly complex; it's just that Cuba's about a million times more so! We hear lots of things about Cuba, file them away as facts or interesting opinions, but even when we're there, it's hard to "test" these tidbits out for ourselves.
One other observation: While some things clearly seem that they haven't changed in 50 years (the buildings, some of the cars, basic infrastructure), I've noticed profound changes of all sorts over the past five years. In fact, between September 2007 and May 2008, I was actually shocked by the number and types of changes I'd seen. Cell phones were everywhere. It had become lots easier to bring in all sorts of electronics from abroad, so laptops, big TVs, DVD players, ipods, and all other types of electronics were becoming much more widespread and were (and remain) objects of desire among younger people.
The changes that are imminent in Cuba, irrespective of US policy, will be both good and bad for the country and for the people. They won't likely make Cuba any less fascinating and elusive, though. :)
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Love this article and have always wanted to get to Cuba. I think it's funny how Americans are bred to "Ignore" Cuba. With such a rich culture how can people afford not to go?
I wonder what type of flourishing could happen there if/when Americans are allowed to travel there? Or if there will be any new arrangements after Castro dies or if his brother will continue to preside over Cuba in the same manner?
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